This is the C&L Performance Mass Airflow Package for a 1994-2000 3.8L V6 Mustang.
(It will not work on a 2001 or later car because in 2001 Ford changed the 3.8L V6 MAF by incorporting
into it the air intake temperature sensor.) The kit consists of a new MAF with 700 cfm
airflow, a rubber ring used to mate the MAF to the stock induction tube, a model RE-0920
K&N high-flow air filter, a plastic shield to provide for cold air intake, and the torx
security driver needed to remove the electronics from a stock MAF. The list price is $249.00 (shipping
included), but you can usually beat that price by shopping around.
Here's the C&L 73mm MAF (left) and the rear of the stock MAF from my 2000 V6 Mustang (right).
The C&L unit is larger and has no center post. Using the torx security driver, you must
remove the electronics and an o-ring from the stock unit and put them on the C&L unit. Be very
careful not to damage the sensors (they look like light-bulb filaments).
On my 2000 Mustang, I found that the electronics module was a VERY tight fit on the new MAF.
Following some directions I found on another web site, I took a file and lightly ran it around the
base of the black plastic sensor prong tower where it meets the aluminum part of the electronics.
After I did that, the electronic module and o-ring dropped easily into the housing of the new MAF.
On 7/19/01 C&L told me that they are aware of this problem, which only occurs on newer vehicles.
They have recently changed the tolerances on the top of their MAF so that the electronic module fits
without difficulty.
The C&L MAF has three 6mm threaded holes on its base, but they are only used for installations on 89-93 Mustangs, Thunderbirds, and Taurus SHOs. When installed on a '94-'00 Mustang 3.8L V6, the MAF is supported by the K&N filter at the front and the stock rubber induction tube at the rear. I would have preferred a more solid, fender-mounted system.
Here's a mounting bracket I made out of a piece of 2" angle iron. It is bolted to the the MAF with two 6mm x 1/2" cap screws. I put a piece of rubber gasket material between the MAF and the bracket and used two large rubber washers on the base to make the mounting shock-proof.
I found that the metalwork under the MAF is a box section that does not permit access from below. I had to drill some holes and use a 1/4-20 U-nut to attach the base of the bracket to the fender.
Here's the MAF mounted on the bracket.
Here are all the pieces in place. The K&N filter is now supported by the MAF, instead of the other way 'round.
The cold air shield provided by C&L does not completely seal off the K&N filter from the engine compartment. It is pretty much open at both ends and it does not make a tight seal against the frame rail. I decided to make some modifications to the shield using material cut from the sides of a black plastic waste basket (Rubbermaid, $2.49 at Home Depot).
I cut out a plastic shield to slip over the base of the K&N filter (left photo) and extended the C&L plastic shield (right photo) by attaching additional pieces of plastic with pop rivets.
All buttoned up. The K&N filter is now completely shielded from the hot air in the engine compartment.
All this stuff, with the stock MAF inside, can be put away in storage.
Does this system make any difference in the performance of my car? Yes it does.
The exhaust note is deeper (I have GT takeoff duals) and there is a noticable
increase in power. The car now seems to accelerate much easier when the A/C is on.
C&L claims 9-10 rwhp gain. Some of that no doubt comes from the K&N filter.
How does the system affect gas mileage? So far I have driven about 5,000 miles with this new MAF and
averaged about 23 mpg. That's about what the car averaged before the installation. It appears there
has been no change.
If you want more info, here's the C&L web page that describes this MAF system.
UPDATE - 07/17/02: The MAF kit has now been on my car for a year (and 8,000 miles) and is working fine. Still getting good power, about 23-24 mpg, and no pinging on 87 octane gas.
UPDATE - 10/20/03: Another year (~20,000 miles total) and no change in performance. I also found that with this unit installed it is very easy to clean the MAF sensor. Unplug the MAF wiring, use the torx security driver to remove two screws, pull the electronics package and sensor out of the MAF, spray clean the filaments (CRC QD Electronic Cleaner from Pep Boys), reinstall the sensor, and reattach the wiring. Five minutes work at most.
